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COLLECTION MANIFEST
Contents
index capitum, manu descriptus.
- I.THE OXIDIZED COAT...........................................III
- — a carbon shell, silver-warp, night-seamed —
- II.CARBON VESSEL..............................................IV
- — folded linen, hand-oxidized, single stitch —
- III.ASH HOUSE DRESS..........................................V
- — crepe de chine, iron-gall, unhemmed —
- IV.OXIDIZED PLUM CAPE......................................VI
- — lead-tape hem, oxidized silk, undressed —
- ·COLOPHON.....................................................VII
ASH / CARBON / OXIDIZED — hover & drag —
LOOK I
I. THE OXIDIZED COAT
A single coat, cut from a bolt of carbon jacquard woven on a 1952 Jacquard loom retired to a warehouse in Ansan. The warp is oxidized silver thread drawn at 0.08mm — heavier than a hair, lighter than a pin. The back yoke is a single piece; the front placket is lap-stitched by hand over eleven hours, without a machine inch.
Buttons are wax-sealed volcanic glass from the inner slope of Jeju's Hallasan, cut in winter when the glass is most brittle and most willing. The inner lining — a dyed silk taffeta left undyed — is cut on the cross-grain to make the coat fall, not hang.
The hem carries three point two kilograms of lead tape sewn into a muslin sleeve. The wearer does not walk; the wearer is walked by the coat.
silens corpus, pondus terrae.
ASH / CARBON / OXIDIZED
LOOK II
II. CARBON VESSEL
A draped vessel dress cut from three panels of hand-oxidized linen and laid over the body like water finding its own level. There are no darts. The garment holds its shape by the memory of the weave alone.
The single seam runs the length of the spine, closed with a continuous one-hundred-and-forty-centimetre running stitch. At its midpoint a single knot of ultraviolet silk — the only chromatic event in an otherwise mute garment.
Worn once, in the vestibule of a Seoul library, at 11:40 p.m., in front of a wall of bound anatomical atlases. Never again.
vas corporis, una cicatrix.
ASH / CARBON / OXIDIZED
LOOK III
III. ASH HOUSE DRESS
A house dress that has forgotten it is a house dress. Two tons of crepe de chine, dyed with iron-gall ink pressed from oak galls harvested near Gyeongju in a November that did not fall below three degrees. The skirt is cut full, the waist is gathered by a continuous drawstring of hand-plied linen cord.
The pockets carry nothing and are meant to carry nothing. On the left pocket, at its exact vertical bisector, a single ultraviolet embroidery stitch — the size of a pinhead — worked in silk by a woman in Hwangnam-dong who does not know the designer's name.
The hem is unhemmed. The raw edge is deliberate and is left to fray slowly over the years until the dress becomes its own record.
vestis domestica, non domestica.
ASH / CARBON / OXIDIZED
LOOK IV
IV. OXIDIZED PLUM CAPE
A full circle cape cut from oxidized plum silk — the color arrived at accidentally in a copper vat left sealed for fourteen months in a coastal atelier in Incheon. The silk yielded a violet that the designer refuses to name and will not reproduce.
The hem is weighted with lead tape to a mass of two point nine kilograms, distributed unequally so that the wearer's left heel bears a hair more than the right. This imbalance is the garment's thesis.
The clasp is a single oxidized silver square with one ultraviolet stitch in its corner, invisible until the cape is fully closed. When closed, the stitch sits directly over the wearer's second sternal rib.
umbra violacea, clavis silentii.
COLOPHON
FINIS
TYPESET IN
Cormorant Garamond, Cormorant Unicase, DM Mono, Nanum Myeongjo, Cardo.
PAPER STOCK
Simulated Takeo Arakawa 120gsm, cream weft. Grain oriented vertically. Printed in an imagination.
IMPRESSION
Edition of one. Private lookbook. Not for commercial distribution.
아틀리에 용준
서울특별시 종로구 익선동
夜間만 개방
finis.