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YAMATO / QUEST ATELIER — MMXXVI
COLOPHON — 00
 

Yamato / an editorial wardrobe

ELEVEN LOOKS — NO PHOTOGRAPHY
PRESSED ON BONE PAPER
FOLDED ONCE
1945 — TO — 2026
Scroll horizontally. The runway advances with your wheel.
02 — ETYMOLOGY
大和
Yamato — from yama (mountain) + to (gate, passage). The oldest attested use predates the seventh-century political designation by at least two generations.
The characters 大和 ("great harmony") are ateji — semantic borrowings applied long after the name was spoken. The name never meant what it now means.
Seen in the Kojiki, the Man'yōshū, on rescripts, on keel-plates, on postage, on hats, on the lining of a school uniform.
································································
03 — VESTIGE I

The Hull

LOOK 03
Superstructure, steel, Kure arsenal, spring 1941. Laid down in secret; displaced 72,809 long tons; never wore.
Cat. № 03.00 — STEEL / RIVETS / ABSENCE
04 — VESTIGE II

The Period

TERRACOTTA · UNGLAZED
KOFUN · IV C. CE
LOOK 04
Haniwa figure, fourth century. Before the word. Before the name. A figure set at the edge of a burial mound to guard a place that would later be called Yamato.
Cat. № 04.00 — CLAY / SILENCE
05 — VESTIGE III

The Poem

やまとには
むらやまあれど
とりよろふ
あめのかぐやま
のぼりたちて
In Yamato there are many mountains, but
on the heavenly Kagu-yama, assembled
in its company, I stand and look down —
the land is filled with rising smoke, the
bay is filled with soaring gulls.
— after Man'yōshū I · 2 (attr. Jomei)
06 — THE WARDROBE

Nine Garments That Never Were

01 Yamato-nadeshiko blouse
CAT. A · 2026
Yamato-nadeshiko blouse / crepe de chine / scalloped hem / unwearable / cf. Panel 09
02 Cherry-blossom epaulette
CAT. B · 2026
Cherry-blossom epaulette / pressed silk / five petals / brass clasp / never issued
03 Rescript sash
CAT. C · 2026
Rescript sash / raw bast fibre / six-character seal in vermilion / unworn / cf. Panel 02
04 Hull-plate collar
CAT. D · 2026
Hull-plate collar / rolled steel / navy-grey enamel / 30mm gauge / cf. Panel 03
05 Haniwa veil
CAT. E · 2026
Haniwa veil / unglazed gauze / terracotta dust finish / cf. Panel 04 / fragile
06 Footnote stole
CAT. F · 2026
Footnote stole / Cormorant Italic / hand-embroidered leader dots / cf. Panel 09
07 Grammar belt
CAT. G · 2026
Grammar belt / particle-stitched leather / -wa, -ga, -o / buckle in cinnabar / museum only
08 Kamon lapel
CAT. H · 2026
Kamon lapel / chrysanthemum sixteen-petal / brass pin / heavy / faintly embarrassed
09 Shame coat
CAT. I · 2026
Shame coat / smoked cedar wool / lining of 1945 newsprint / single button / never buttoned
07 — LOOKBOOK

Six Silks

I HABUTAE plain silk
II RINZU damask
III TSUMUGI slub silk
IV CHIRIMEN crepe
V SHUSU satin
VI RA gauze
08 — THE QUEST

A Constellation of Six Things

Six overlapping circumferences: myth, state, ship, grammar, shame, fiction. The word Yamato is never in the center; it is in each intersection, smaller than it looks.
09 — APPENDIX OF GHOSTS

Footnotes, Assembled

i. The name Yamato precedes the state that claimed it, and survives the state that used it, and outlasts the ship that wore it. To name a thing is to pretend the thing coheres. The Kojiki (712 CE) lists Yamato among the provinces; the Nihon Shoki (720 CE) lists it as the center. By the time of the Engishiki (927 CE) it had become an honorific prefix. By the time of the Meiji Rescript on Education (1890) it was a verb.

ii. Yamato-damashii — "Yamato spirit" — is a term that appears in the Genji monogatari meaning practical wisdom, everyday competence. By 1890 it means racial essence. By 1941 it means battleship. The drift is not semantic; it is historical. The word is the same; the thing it points to has been wearing different clothes.

iii. The battleship Yamato (大和) displaced 72,809 long tons. Her nine 46 cm guns were the largest ever mounted on a warship. She was sunk in Operation Ten-Gō on 7 April 1945, 200 km south of Kyūshū, by coordinated American air attack. Of 2,778 crew, 2,498 died. The ship, the word, the epoch, and the idea all went down at the same coordinate.

iv. After 1945, Yamato retreats into the lexicon. It reappears in the 1974 anime Space Battleship Yamato, where the sunken hull is salvaged and converted into a spacecraft. This is, in a sense, the lookbook the twentieth century had been waiting for: the word rescued from its weight and given a uniform of stars.

v. This site does not judge the word. It only hangs it on an armature and lets the cold gallery light do the work. A lookbook does not argue. It presents, turns the page, presents again. The reader is the historian.

vi. Cf. Irma Boom, Book for Architects, 2009. Cf. Kengo Kuma, Anti-Object, 2008. Cf. Viviane Sassen, Umbra, 2014. Cf. every editorial that has ever refused to explain itself on the first page.

10 — INDEX

Index

  • Ateji02
  • Armature, invisible00
  • Battleship03, 09
  • Bone paperevery
  • Cinnabar seal00, 11
  • Chrysanthemum06.08
  • Damask07.II
  • Edict, imperial08
  • Fiction08
  • Footnote, as dress06.06, 09
  • Grammar08
  • Gauze07.VI
  • Haniwa04
  • Honorific prefix09.i
  • Hull03
  • Kakezuriframe
  • Kamon06.08
  • Kofun period04
  • Lookbook07, passim
  • Ma (negative space)every
  • Man'yōshū05, 02.iii
  • Meiji rescript09.i
  • Myth08
  • Nashiji lacquercolor
  • Operation Ten-Gō09.iii
  • Pattern-maker's notchcursor
  • Rescript sash06.03
  • Rice paper, oxidizedfield
  • Rinzu07.II
  • Shame08, 06.09
  • Ship08, 03
  • Shippori Mincho05
  • Silk weave07
  • Smoked cedarcolor
  • State08
  • Sumi blackink
  • Superstructure03
  • Tailor's markcursor
  • Tate-gumigrid
  • Unwearableevery
  • Waka05
  • Wardrobe, the06
  • Yamato-damashii09.ii
  • Yamato-nadeshiko06.01
  • 大和02, 05, 11
11 — FOLD-OUT / CENTERFOLD
大和
01 COLOPHON
02 ETYMOLOGY
03 THE HULL
04 THE PERIOD
05 THE POEM
06 THE WARDROBE
07 LOOKBOOK
08 THE QUEST
09 APPENDIX
10 INDEX
11 FOLD-OUT
f4efe3BONE PAPER
1a1614SUMI BLACK
8f2d2aCINNABAR
c9b07aAGED BRASS
5a5147SMOKED CEDAR
e8dcc8UNBLEACHED LINEN
2a2420DEEP WALNUT
d4ccb8PATTERN WEAVE
Fraunces · DISPLAY
Cormorant Garamond · body italic
しっぽり明朝 · 日本語
ARCHIVO · ANNOTATION
IBM Plex Mono · 1945 · 2026
やまとには
むらやまあれど
とりよろふ
あめのかぐやま
のぼりたちて
PRINTED FOR YAMATO.QUEST · MMXXVI · FOLDED ONCE · BONE PAPER · NO PHOTOGRAPHY · ELEVEN LOOKS
一 END 一
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