The Myth of the Five-Star Restaurant
They told you it was transcendent. They lied. Not maliciously -- they lied the way everyone lies about expensive things: with the quiet desperation of someone who needs the price to justify the experience. The amuse-bouche arrived on a slate the size of a playing card, and you were expected to feel something. You felt hunger.
The sommelier spoke in a register designed to make you feel undereducated. The lighting was calibrated to make everything look like a Vermeer, including your date's increasingly visible boredom. The bread was fine. The bread is always fine. That is the problem with fine dining: everything is fine, and nothing is alive.
Real criticism starts with the admission that taste is not democratic. Your palate is not a parliament. It is a dictator with very specific preferences, and the sooner you stop pretending otherwise, the sooner you can start actually enjoying what you eat, watch, read, and listen to.